CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)

[cgeorg]

Pullups AMRAPx4
BWx[6,4,4,4]

Finger stuff
Light "hangs" (feet on ground) x10 or so between pullups.

Right shoulder hurts from bench stuff. Been meaning to do more shoulder work and a climbing training channel just dropped this video which includes a couple of the things I'd been wanting to do. Will try to work it in 3x/wk. My shoulder has gone through some real interesting pops and clicks and feelings of things moving across other things lately, including a spectacularly large-feeling shift a few climbing sessions ago, that actually resulted in it feeling more right somehow, for a little bit. Who knows, it's probably a clusterfuck in there.

[cgeorg]

Climbed for about an hour and half, was decent. Then did

Pullups AMRAP, 2m rest, 5m density block
BWx6
BWx2x11

[cgeorg]

As bitched about in how did your training go, my shoulder is bugging me more even with some rest. So rehab it is.

Scapular Pushups 2x10
+
Face Pulls 2x10
+
Prone OHP 2x10

Face pulls were done with climbing rope looped over the pullup bar on the rack. First set of scapular pushups I did with hands on bench, feet on floor, and they were oddly hard. 2nd set I went into the basement to be more horizontal and they were not as hard. Weird. Prone OHP is hard with no weight.

Arnold Press 15x10x2
External Shoulder Rotation 5x10x2 upright, 5x5x2 leaned over to emphasize top of ROM
Leaning Shrugs 25x10x1
Lateral Raise 5x10x1
Anterior Raise 5x10x1

Probably should have done 10s or 12.5s to start Arnold Presses, oh well. Novel exercises, should be easier next time.

I hung from the bar a couple of times. Full scapular retraction = no pain. Let the shoulders loosen up a little bit and it's kind of pulling ache, feels like it starts under my clavicle almost and is pretty localized there, a little bit of something down the arm. Looking at pictures to try to describe it better, maybe the impingement described in this https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91jswnqLqBL.jpg

Crossing my arm in front of my body has limited rom and makes noises.

[cgeorg]

Accountability update or something.

Did a couple of hangs because someone on the internet said it was good for impingement. Went on vacation, which included air hockey, ping pong, pool, and an arcade basketball game all in the house. Boy did that arcade basketball game wear out my shoulder. During the week it felt like it might actually be decent rehab, a bit achy but never really painful. By Friday night my shoulder was waking me up at night and Saturday's drive caused a lot of discomfort, I was holding my arm as if it was in a sling as the least painful option, and was picturing when my friend had to have a bicep tendon reattached in his shoulder and had to sleep sitting up with ice water pumped over his shoulder for a week. It sucks less today, and I have more hope that it could be a simple rehab. Will be calling my PCP tomorrow to get whatever the fix will be in motion.

[cole]

i just got over biceps tendonitis or impingement, whatever you want to call it. took about 6 months to fully heal. the good news was that i was able to train through it with quite a bit of a drop in load, but sort of got to LP it back up which is always fun. good luck

[cgeorg]

i just got over biceps tendonitis or impingement, whatever you want to call it. took about 6 months to fully heal. the good news was that i was able to train through it with quite a bit of a drop in load, but sort of got to LP it back up which is always fun. good luck

Yowza, that is a long time. Was it an acute injury or something that built up over time? Any official rehab protocol or just a big deload and work back smartly?

I got a 6 day run of steroids (methylprednisolone) and am now on day 4. It's the pack where you do 6 the first day, down to 1 the last day. The first days took away all resting pain, just getting a little soreness when doing my stretches and rehab. Today, it has started hurting a bit at rest, so I think my body's inflammation response to whatever this is is still pretty strong.

Now that the inflammation is being tamed a bit I can feel that my issue seems pretty localized to the front-outside part of my shoulder. The stretching (mostly putting hands on various parts of a doorway and leaning through) is improving - better ROM and less pain. The exercises are fine, I have had to play a bit with weights. External rotations are the one where I see a big difference between my good and bad sides. Got a referral for PT and am going to get it on the schedule since it will probably be a few months out, and I can evaluate and cancel in the meantime if it seems I am progressing without it.

Moving forward, I think I need to be more cognizant of scapular retraction when climbing (and probably in other stuff too). Speaking of, I'm not sure how I'm going to evaluate resuming climbing.

Ugh, yeah, just sitting here typing this it's starting to throb

[Hardartery]

Based on what I know Travis' underlying injury to be, these might prove useful for you. Hopefully it's just soft tissue for you. I have two bone spurs in the left shoulder which mean pain in certain positions and movements for me for the rest of my life and constant mobility issues on the left side. It is improving, and now that I know what the pain is and that I'm not tearing something it doesn't really hold me back in training.

[cole]

i just got over biceps tendonitis or impingement, whatever you want to call it. took about 6 months to fully heal. the good news was that i was able to train through it with quite a bit of a drop in load, but sort of got to LP it back up which is always fun. good luck

Yowza, that is a long time. Was it an acute injury or something that built up over time? Any official rehab protocol or just a big deload and work back smartly?

im sure it was an overuse injury but it did seem to happen at once. i was pulling a ratchet strap at a weird angle. but at the time my programming was way too out of control intensity and volume wise so im sure that was a factor. i basically started back at the bar for higher reps, then once i got to a decent weight i went to LPing my 5s. tendonopathy can take a long time to fully recover

[cgeorg]

Thanks for the insights, guys. I need to get some bands.

Yesterday's rehab:
2-3 Scapular pullup negatives, then ~7 scapular pullups

Face pulls x10, 12
External Rotations 3lb x 12, 12
Arnold Press 12.5x 12, 12
superset these ^

Incline press just to see if there was any pain, 15x12. A couple of slower pullups just to see if there was any pain.

Everything felt pretty good. The external rotations petered out pretty evenly, which excites me. I think I actually have less ROM for those on my left side, but they also just feel more awkward, probably from not being my dominant side. Will keep the daily rehab going, maybe see about getting some barbell lifts going later in the week and some easy climbing this weekend or next week.

I was supposed to golf today and the others let some light rain cancel it for them. There's not enough life to be skipping golf for some drizzles. I woke up thinking I wouldn't be working, which makes it tough to transition to a working mindset.

[cgeorg]

Today's rehab:

Scapular pullups: 10
Face pulls (more upright): 12x2
External rotations: 3lbx12x3
Arnold press: 15sx12x2

I felt the external rotations more in my right, but the last reps were harder with my left. Good sign I think? Based on feels, the external rotations target the injury the most, followed by hangs and Arnolds. I'm considering taking my climbing stuff tomorrow and hitting the wall after the office.

[cgeorg]

Did some climbing yesterday, V0s up through V2s, keeping away from excessively dynamic/shouldery/reachy moves. Felt fine climbing and feeling pretty good today. That's a win

[cgeorg]

Did rehab on Monday, something like:
10 scapular pullups
Face pulls 15x2
External Rotations 3.5x15x3
Diagonal Snatch things 10x12x2
Arnolds 17.5x15x2

Climbed at the new facility yesterday. They have sport walls up to about 50 feet now, with lead (waiting for my usual climbing partner to get back in town so we can test for that), top rope, and autobelay. Also some decent bouldering walls with some pretty fun sets. I kept the bouldering fairly easy, although I did try a couple of non-shouldery harder climbs. For sport, I did some autobelay routes up to 5.10c on the 50 footer. It is pretty cool, the routes are much more route-like and not as bouldery as the other facility with ~25 foot walls. The individual moves were easier but you run into a different kind of pump at the top. I'm really looking forward to sport climbing here a bunch more.

[cgeorg]

Fell off here... Been bad at maintaining rehab. Climbed last Tuesday (flashed a 50ft 5.10d), went to the range Thursday (too cold). Did overhead demolition stuff a few times throughout the week that left my shoulders a bit wiped.

Yesterday:
Face Pulls 2x10
External Rotations 3lbx15x2
Hammer Curls 20lbx10
Arnold Presses 15lbx15
Bench 45x10, 65x10, 85x10x4
Cross DB snatch 10lbx10x3
2 Pullups
Deadlift: 135xsome

Was kinda just bouncing around with shit. Sometimes I feel the pain down the front of my arms, so I did the curls to check that. Seemed fine. Tested bench to check for pain, seemed fine, will probably progress this a bit. Elbow and shoulder seemed a little soft on the snatches, I guess I should use 5s? Christ. Strength on pullups seemed lacking, but the extended bottom hang position is probably the the most painful position to get into and out of, and I was going quite slow, and had just done a bunch of other stuff, so... n=1 I guess.

When I'm at rest, the pain is in the front. When I'm actually doing anything, I feel it in the back. IDK. External rotations and those cross snatches seem to hit the soreness/tightness most, with Arnolds a close third.

Oh man and the demo. Seems we have 1/4" plasterboard, then metal mesh, then plaster. I'm removing the framing of a closet to add built-ins in the room we're making an office. The metal was a surprise, so that cost a few days till I could rent an oscillating tool, that metal blade did real nice stuff to the mesh. Then I see some unexpected wood above the last 2x4 going across the ceiling, so have to do a bunch more verification that I'm not taking out load-bearing stuff. Chipped away at some more of the ceiling (the metal mesh is only on the room side of things, not in the closet side of things) and it looks like the wood above was just a couple of nailers for attaching the plasterboard. That 2x4 also seems to extend well past the closet, and the general purpose blade I got for the oscillating tool was able to get through the 2x4 but not to the nailers. It's going to be fun to try to get this out, and fresh nailers in, without taking out more ceiling than needed. I know plaster has plenty of benefits but I fucking hate doing anything to walls made of the stuff. They also used some stupid rounded metal bead on a lot of the edges and now I'm just being cranky.

Also as I was reading up on stuff as I went, it seems I should probably grab an asbestos test kit for this plaster. Hoping I didn't move my death date up a few years.

Also also I'm kind of refreshing myself on stuff like this as I go, and stuff like "plastic tent the area" wasn't on my radar until after everything in the office was coated in a dusting of asbestos definitely non-carcinogenic matter. I hope.

[cgeorg]

Today:

External Rotations 3lbx15x3

[cgeorg]

Ok, got tested out for lead on a 5.6 or 5.7 last night. It's been a bit and I was a little fuzzy on some of the little stuff, but overall a smooth process. I then tried a 5.10b on the tall overhanging wall, made it about 2/3 of the way, had to hang for a bit, got another clip but it was going to be bolt to bolt the rest of the way so I just called it. Nice to get the the headwall on my first go though, I am looking forward to building some endurance and recovery, learning how to rest up there, etc.

Shoulder is still being shoulder. Actually, after the lead, we went back to a shorter top rope wall, and I cruised a nice little rock-style-holds 5.10c that included a pretty big rockover move onto the right arm, which I was able to take verrry controlled and slow. Yay! Then, on a 5.8, my foot slipped while my right hand was way extended up holding a jug and took all of my weight on the right shoulder. Dumb. Taking 3lbs with me for holiday travel external rotations, and will do a bunch today. I'm noticing as I try to keep my shoulders much more engaged during climbing that my shoulders are weak.

[cgeorg]

Ok I guess I'm lifting again. Better start formatting things like it.

2022-11-26

Bench
45x10
65x15
75x15
80x15
90x10 paused

DL
135x10
185x10

SGDL
145x10

One-arm cross snatch thing
3lbx15x2

3 pullups in there somewhere.

---

A day later, my boobs and upper back are sore. The weights should be embarrassing but I am strong and beautiful and know they were right for me on that day.

[cgeorg]

2022-11-28

Rehab

Dead Hang
Shoulder width, wide, narrow

External rotations
3lbx15x3
+
One-arm cross snatch thing
3lbx15x3

Scapular pullups
BWx10

All of this felt really nice. External rotations could maybe go up to 3.5 next time, but I'll probably give it another at 3.

I think the snatch thing can bump up to 5. Did a little googling and it's basically a mix of a one-arm cable lateral raise and a one-arm snatch. No bending, arm stays straight, and for the right hand, if the front of my body is a clock face, I start around 5:00 and end around 10:30. They do give me a bit of a velcro ripping sound on the eccentric, only on the right side. I'm telling myself that it's scar tissue breaking up. A guy can dream.

I'm really happy about the way my shoulder felt through the ROM on the scapular pullups, there was some pain but it was low and dull. Feels like progress. I'm going to skip climbing tomorrow because I don't have the willpower to keep intensity as low as I should there.

[cgeorg]

Wanted to have another workout before this one, c'est la vie

2022-12-02

Dead hang, 5 scap pullups

Bench
45x10
65x10
85x10
95x10
105x10
105x8x3
125x3

The stuff at 105 felt proper tough, though light. I had my wife get in spotting position for 125 but they were very solid. One of the incidents leading up to hurting myself was what should have been a fairly easy set at 165 becoming 2@10, after some easy warmup at 135, so I'm being pretty cautious here.

SGDL
135x10
150x10
200x8x2

The first 2 sets were grip touching the collars, the last 2 were just outside the outer rings. 200 felt like lifting something heavy, which was really nice.

External Rotations
3.5x15x3

Bumped up the weight, felt good. I tried leaning over to do some internal rotations but that was just dumb. Going to order some bands.

Snatchy
5x15x2

Bumped up the weight, felt good. Did the 2nd one bent over a little bit and I liked the resistance at the end of the ROM better.

[cgeorg]

2022-12-04

Still feeling those SGDLs in the ol' upper back.

Bench
[45, 65, 85, 105]x10
115x8x4

Some pain but nothing too bad

LBBS
95x8
135x8
185x3
95x8

Tried to get under the bar for warmups and discovered that my shoulder mobility isn't great - not sure why this surprised me so much. Moved my grip wider and did them. Got under the bar at 95, it felt real bad, unracked it and then just reracked it and wrote off squats for the day because it felt so incredibly bad. After my wife's set, I decided to at least get back under the bar to stretch things out and work on the mobility. I was able to work my hands in to my usual fairly narrow grip (pinkies on inside rings), then did a set and it was fine (I mean, the leg part was super easy, the shoulder part wasn't). Worked my way up, and at 185 I started to do the pulling-down-on-the-bar thing which meant novel forces going through my shoulder so I stopped at 3 and bumped way back down for a last one. I don't think sets at 95 or even 135 are really going to do anything squat-wise, but maybe the mobility side of things makes it worth it. And I guess if I was doing 20s at 135 it'd probably do something. Hmm.

Fucking around:
DB Hammer Curlz
20sx12x3

I tried a staggered stance and leaning back on the 2nd and 3rd set, to get a bit of an incline thing going on. It was hard to balance but I liked the little extra ROM at the start. I should build a box to incline the bench on.

Face Pulls
BWx10x2

OHP
45x8

Inverted Row feet up on bench, pulling on rope looped over the rack's pullup bar
BWx6

---

I ordered some bands, they should be here tomorrow. I expect my next log's fucking around section to be quite full.

[cgeorg]

The bands are: Red Camo, 10-35LB, Black Camo, 30-60LB, Purple Camo, 40-80LB, Green Camo, 50-125LB

2022-12-10

External Rotations
Black Band x 10

Bench
95x10
126x8x4

Had to cut this short.

2022-12-11

I felt more like fucking around than lifting, so I did.

OHP
50x12x3
+
External Rotations
Black Band x10 x3
+
Internal Rotations
Black Band x10 x3

Pullups
BWx4x4

Deadlift
215x8

Just wanted to hold something heavy there at the end.