CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)

[cgeorg]

Started drawer fronts Saturday, got as far as rails + stiles cut and dado'd when we realized we had a lot of wall prep to do before painters came Monday - some cleanup on the mudding on a recent wall reno, and dealing with a shit ton of texture on some walls that we did not want to look very textured. So that was my entire weekend, with an incredibly late and draining Sunday, with the only real break being some climbing Sunday. That climbing went surprisingly well for how tired/weak I felt, working on some stuff in the 5.11 range, dropped 3 climbs near the top and I think I can get 2 of them tonight. Finished the 2.5hr session with a send of a 3 out of 4 chili peppers comp boulder that took about 20 tries, although 5 of those were figuring out how to start the problem and another 10 were wasted kicking up into the starting toe hook and missing.

Should be lifting again Weds

[cgeorg]

Climbed last night.

Top Rope
Warmed up through some 5.10s and a 5.11a

5.11c x F
Got back on a 5.11c that I had tried last session and had fallen on a move near the top. Slipped on the middle crux this time, there's a really cool bit of balancey slab in the middle and I think my foot needed to be a bit farther over on the one hold. Finished it up clean, and worked out a foot sequence on a cruxy bit near the top that should help when I definitely send it next time I'm there. Was chatting with a guy who mentioned he did it like a month ago, which makes me a touch worried it'll be gone before I get back there Sunday. Fingers crossed.

5.12a x F
Then, tried a 5.12a because why not. Tiny tiny crimps and shitty ball slopers. Had an unforced error on a sweaty palm slip in the middle, and then fell about 3 moves from the top, there were 2 tiny crimps near each other and I went left hand to the first, right hand to the second, then realized there was no way to move past that. Pulled back on and did left hand, then bump left hand up, and was able to finish. This might also go next time, but the sweat will be an issue. There were lots of desperate moves on this one, but the thing I've found as I've gotten into harder stuff is that trust is huge. It turns out I can actually hold on to desperate things, and make desperate foot moves. A hold is really shitty? Ok, but you're holding it, so keep going. No way you're going to do that foot swap? Well guess what, you need to swap feet and you know how to do it. I'm sure there have been some strength gains, and I'm lighter, but I think a lot of the recent harder climbing can be attributed to confidence and persistence.

Bouldering
Obviously, after limit sport climbing the correct thing is to go try some limit bouldering. Tried and failed on a bunch of hard comp stuff, and a couple v5-v7 boulders. Nearly got a terribly crimpy v3-5 slab near the end, but couldn't figure out where to get my weight to make the last move. I have an idea for next time but it's not the kind of climb you can try too many times on bad skin. Then, easy flash of a different v3-5, a silly attempt at a v5-7, and home for dinner.

---

Lifting is still on for tonight, I think it's deadlift day. Love deadlifts. I had been doing SGDLs bc more upper back work and easier to load less weight on the bar, but I might run conventional for a bit so I can look at bigger numbers.

Oh yeah, speaking of lighter, I've been floating in the 172-175 range. I swear I'm eating, I've not been trying to lose weight. I did cut out alcohol for a bit starting mid January, these days I'm a legit 1-2 drinks a week, not a that's-what-I-say-when-the-doctor-asks. Had been doing a greek yogurt+pb lunch thing, for this week I busted out the stand mixer and mixed up a batch of that plus chocolate whey and creatine, with some Costco keto granola mixed in at serving time. ~950 cal per serving - 65ishg protein and fat, 20ish carbs. Brogurt. The artificial sweetness is a bit much, I added 1tsp of truvia but I think the problem is the artifical sweeteners in the whey. Might test out a batch of unflavored after this gigantic fucking bag that I've had for 6 years is finished.

[cgeorg]

2024-03-06

Deadlift
185x5x3

Wife was doing stuff at 135 and 185 is easy to load, and a fine weight for reintroducing my body to the lift. Last set might have hit @5.

Unilateral Tricep Pressdown
15x8x3

15lbs on a rope though a high pulley. Tried with a 25 first and it wouldn't move. Sprayed the pulley with WD40 after the first set and that helped a lot.
+
BB Curl
45x10x3

Still not sure how I'm going to do titties.

[cgeorg]

Climbing
Did a max finger strength test during lunch, I was able to add 58lbs to my harness hanging on a 20mm edge (about 1 finger pad) for 7s. That's a 133% body weight hang and about .5SD below the mean for my climbing grade, which I will take as a compliment to my climbing technique and route reading. There could also be some bias in that the mean is based on people opting in to finger strength testing, which might skew towards people that more explicitly train it.

I also did a pullup with 50lbs strapped on which makes me think I could/should start doing some weighted pullups to drive pulling strength.

[cgeorg]

2024-03-09
Lifting

Squat
135x5x3

Placed the bar as high as I could while still having it on meat, but there was definitely some shoulder discomfort while squatting and getting out from under the bar. Wish I had traps so I could go higher. I think they look pretty good, I noticed some low back hyperextension in the video and think I kept it out of the next 2 sets.


Inverted Rows
BWx[6,8,8]

First set was with rope looped over the lower pullup bar, second was rope over the higher one, third was over the higher one and feet up. These kind of suck holding on to a rope due to the diameter, and the rope coming out from the center rather than straight down. Maybe I just do BB rows.

Internal Rotations
Lightest Bandx[12,10,10]

Trying to get some sort of partial fly going. First one had more actual lateral movement, the last 2 slowly morphed into internal rotations. My right side is always my strong side, and for each variation here the left was way easier than the right. The internal rotation did seem to be working my pec. If I really pulled my shoulder down and back it didn't seem to click too much, but as I write this up it is starting to ache. Could have been any one of the exercises, we'll see.

[DCR]

Placed the bar as high as I could while still having it on meat, but there was definitely some shoulder discomfort while squatting and getting out from under the bar. Wish I had traps so I could go higher. I think they look pretty good, I noticed some low back hyperextension in the video and think I kept it out of the next 2 sets.

That's where I place the bar as well. I thought that set looked great. I can see why it looks like a bit of back hyperextension but that usually comes with raising your chest along with getting back on your heels, in a worst case with toes coming up. I don't see any of that - your chest is moving straight up and down and you appear to be over midfoot throughout. Might just be your body structure.

[FilmBuff]

Squatting with shoulder issues sucks ass. I’ve taken my good shoulder health for granted until this last injury.

Trying to get under a bar is an adventure.

I remember feigenbaum using a towel on his bad shoulder and also a talon grip for a while when he fell off his bike, so I’m considering some similar adjustments or just joining another gym with an SSB lol.

I’d kill for a fraction of your grip strength lol, I’ve had many hand injuries I should really start focusing on ways of strengthening the fingers and grip.

[cgeorg]

Squatting with shoulder issues sucks ass. I’ve taken my good shoulder health for granted until this last injury.

Trying to get under a bar is an adventure.

I remember feigenbaum using a towel on his bad shoulder and also a talon grip for a while when he fell off his bike, so I’m considering some similar adjustments or just joining another gym with an SSB lol.

I’d kill for a fraction of your grip strength lol, I’ve had many hand injuries I should really start focusing on ways of strengthening the fingers and grip.

I hadn't heard about the talon grip, I'll give it a try and see if it takes some pressure off. I also had the terrible realization that front squatting would probably be fine on my shoulders. But then I'd have to front squat, and they suck and my rack sucks. I guess it would also be better for mid-back strength which would be a wonderful side benefit. We'll see.

Thank you re:grip strength, it's such a specific and fickle thing. My crush and grip strength are pretty solid, but I can't pinch worth shit, especially with my left hand. See posts starting late April of last year for a pretty gruesome nerve and tendon severing injury. The fun bit is that my left hand, while still a bit weaker than my right (as it always has been) doesn't seem to tire as quickly, or at least I can't feel the pump when it does. The un-fun bit is that I can't bend the last knuckle of that thumb with any force, so when I pinch the force all just goes into the bone at that joint rather than the pad of my thumb, and there's basically no friction component.

Climbing

Did some warmup bouldering, eventually working through some individual moves on a v3-5 that had a heel hook that I wasn't willing to risk my knee on, and then a brutal v4-6 where I could get like 2 sequences of 3 moves before getting completely shut down. Then my climbing partner arrived, and I went after those failed climbs from last time.

5.12a x F
Damnit. I dropped a really big move a few from the top, I think I was a little more rested when I got there last time because of the early foot slip. There were climbers next to me on their way up so I ended up hanging there for probably 2 minutes while they got by me, then easily finished it. The gym started a community grading thing where people can suggest grades, and there were a bunch in the 5.11c/d range. I guess I can see it, it's a lot of slopers and I'm weak on those. I still think this will go though.

5.11d x F
Mislabeled this as 5.11c last time. Got through the middle crux beautifully, rested a bit on a big jug right after it, then fell 2.5 moves later. You have to use a bad and high right foot to move from that jug to a pretty bad left hand hold, then the right hand up to a slightly better but still bad hold, then get your left foot up to that jug which is about waist level, and I don't know what went wrong but I couldn't get my weight far enough right to get my foot up. Hung there for maybe 30 seconds, pulled back on and got the move and finished it. Really hope this one is still there Tuesday, and I will give it up to 3 attempts. Community consensus on this one is more like 5.12a.

5.11d x F
Sensing a pattern here. Hadn't tried this one before, the early bits were fine but then about halfway up the holds just get ridiculously bad. At the spot I fell, I just can't see a way to get past this one move. Used a nearby route to climb past it and continue, and every move was "how the fuck am I still on". Part of the learning process of trusting my strength and abilities, and learning what is actually possible. I'll probably try this again.

5.10b x Flash
Felt like spiderman flying up this thing.

5.11c x F
Initial fall was because I got to a spot where I needed a heel hook on that bad knee, and my grip was getting tired enough that I didn't trust myself to not overload the leg. Hung for a few, got through that spot but it just got brutal at the top.

5.9 x Flash
This was harder than the 5.10b, probably because my forearms were so damn pumped at this point.

Somewhere in there was also a repeat of a 5.11a that I did last session, really fun climb except one spot where the rope gets in your way on a real precise move to a pocket.

In a month or 2 I plan to start climbing 3x/week, and I'll need to add some structure. At this point I don't think maxing out every session is hurting me, but I know I can't keep it up indefinitely. Also, my climbing partner is recovering from a snowboarding wrist injury, and hopefully in a few more sessions she'll have enough back that we can bust out the rope and do some lead.

[DCR]

I hadn't heard about the talon grip, I'll give it a try and see if it takes some pressure off. I also had the terrible realization that front squatting would probably be fine on my shoulders. But then I'd have to front squat, and they suck and my rack sucks. I guess it would also be better for mid-back strength which would be a wonderful side benefit. We'll see.

[cgeorg]

2024-03-11

Played with a few light bench sets during my wife's, I think I might be able to do a super close deadlift-width grip bench without it being too much of a problem. I don't think that would really get much chest happening but I guess it would at least be a compound lift that I could push some more weight with. Tried some super slow reps with ring finger on the inner ring and even then I could feel it grinding, so that's a no go.

Deadlift DOH
225x5x3

Sure, why not jump 40lbs on your second workout back. Heavy but not heavy if you know what I mean. Adductors were annoyed at the 135 warmup. I won't be making another 40lb jump next workout. I could see myself getting into belt territory not too far off although I'm going to kick that can down the road aways [is too a word, Chrome], and straps will probably come into play at some point so I'll start noting that stuff.

Unilateral Triceps Pressdown
20x5
15x[10,12]

lol at the 20, I think the pulley/rope create some extra moment of inertia that requires >20lbs of force to start and maintain. At least that's what I'm telling myself. Surprisingly even left/right strength here.

BB Curl
50x10x3

[FilmBuff]

I’ll start reading back, that sounds terrible.

I’ve others use wrist straps on front squats, it still looks annoying and painful lol.

[DCR]

I’ll start reading back, that sounds terrible.

I’ve others use wrist straps on front squats, it still looks annoying and painful lol.

Have done this - a few folks presented it to me as the solution to front squatting - and can confirm that it still was annoying af.

[cgeorg]

2024-03-12
Climbing

Quick warmup

Top Rope
5.11a x Flash
Lots of slopers, a couple crimps. There were a couple ungraded climbs in the corner, my partner did the purple one that looked like a 5.9ish, and it was plan to do that one as well but then she told the guy next to us that I was doing the yellow so what was I to do? It looked hard so I figured if it was too much I'd just switch to the purple and finish. I did not have to. It felt like a 5.10d/5.11a, and went I went over to put 5.11a on the community grading sheet that was the consensus as well. Nice.

5.11d x Redpoint
Back to the blue. Fell on the first real move, lowered the 2 feet to the floor, waited about 15 seconds and got back on. Felt a little shaky but got through everything, fuck yeah buddy. When you actually put it all together it's hard but maybe not that hard? Not sure if I'd say 5.11d or 5.12a. Most people have given it 5.12a, but there were also a couple of 5.10d and 5.10c ratings? That seems uncalled for.

Bouldering
Climbing partner had to leave, so over to bouldering. Flailed on some stuff regular stuff, then went to the comp wall where problems are graded on a spiciness scale of 1 to 4 chilis. 2 chilis is my flash grade, 3 is a project. I tried a few, making little progress on most but getting very near the top of one. There are 2 really bad holds near the finish, coming from a good one that your hands are matched on. The sequence looks like left hand first, then right, then an easier to move the finish. My left hand can't hold its hold well enough to then move my right, and I don't know if it's really doable right hand first. I'll probably give it one more try later. I flashed a few 2 chili problems, was feeling pretty light so I turned some static moves into hold-skipping jumps.

[cgeorg]

Body weight up about 3 pounds, on creatine about 10 days so the story adds up. I feel thicker through the chest and shoulders. Last time I approached 180, from above, my climbing was deteriorating. This time, coming from below, it's improving. Wins all around.

2024-03-13
~25min walk at lunch time

2024-03-14
Walked 9 holes, shot 46. Short game's a mess and it takes me 7 holes to remember how to swing full shots.

2024-03-15

Laying Triceps Extension
45x10x3

Squat
155x5x3

That talon grip took all the pressure off my shoulder, while adding a little bit to my wrist. Overall much better and I won't have to front squat, yay. I am not sure how easy it will be to keep the bar on my back the weights progress.

Inverted Row
BWx[10,8,9]

I just really hate these, it's so hard to get a correct body path. Plus everything I put my feet up on moves. Gonna just switch back to supine BB rows.

Internal Rotations
Gray Bandx10x3

The bands are all multi-colored and the weakest 2 are a combination of red and black, but the lightest one doesn't have any gray so that one will be red and this one will be gray.

[cgeorg]

Got every cut for the drawer faces and cabinet door yesterday (aside from the plywood for the door), assembling today. I have 2 large bar clamps and 10 things to assemble so I'll probably clamp in the middle when assembling then use painters tape to hold it

2024-03-17

Top Rope
I don't remember everything. At least one 5.11+ and one 5.11- on-sighted, plenty of failing on other 5.11 stuff and a 5.12-.

Bouldering
Skin was trash at this point. Touched some holds on hard stuff, got a v3-5 second go, started on a v5-7, got another v3-5 second go, called it.

[cgeorg]

2024-03-21 Climbing

Bouldering
The plan was to project v3-5s that were new or I hadn't been able to send. Skin was still kind of trashed from Sunday, and it showed, I was slipping off of holds that I shouldn't have. Will use the gym's names for the walls to help me remember what stuff was in the future.

Comp Wall (~40* overhang) v3-5: Sent 3rd or 4th go. There was a hold near the start that had some chalk on it and looked plausibly usable in the starting sequence, but I don't think it was intended to be used there. Once I skipped it and just used it as a foot later, I got the send.

Arch Vert (slab) v3-5: Probably 5 send attempts but could never get the second move. Super tiny crimps, the bad skin hurt and the poor left hand crimp strength/finger dexterity/inability to full crimp killed me. I got everything else in isolation but that second move requires holding a ~5-6mm edge with the left hand for an extended time as you work up to the next hold with your right hand, and I just don't have that. Pretty cool climb though, it would be nice to at least put together 3rd move through the top at some point.

Coffin (~15* overhang) v3-5: I'm struggling to remember this one. Notes say 3 fails. Oh, right, a weird purple one that seems like it should be easier than it is. I got every move but couldn't put it all together. I think this one will go with better skin. I might be able to tweak footwork on the bottom to make it a bit easier. I was also in more aggressive shoes for this one, and I think my softer ones would work better for the bottom sequence.

Wave (it's a wave, up then back then up, maxing out around 60-70*) v3-5: Tried 2 different ones. I couldn't get as far as I should have, again skin was gone and energy was flagging.

Entrance Wall (slab) v3-5: Flash, yay. New one. Flashed a v2-4 while I was at it.

Desk Arch (like it says, an arch, horizontal through the middle) v3-5: Got like 2 moves, nfi how to continue, pass.

Blue Box (little bump in the wall) v2-4: Flash, neat little sequence of rails that you keep a heel hook on as you traverse, then mantle up for the finish.

Lots of stuff happening so didn't get to lift for a bit, hopefully tomorrow and Sunday?

House Stuff
Got the glue-ups done, the lack of milling equipment means some faces weren't square which means some mortise/tenon joints are a bit off, so there's going to be a decent bit of filling and sanding. The frame pieces are only 2 1/4" so I shouldn't have to worry about expansion fucking up the fills. I think I'm looking at about 3 more days of woodwork plus however long painting takes to get those done. Also need to figure out hardware, the small drawers are like 6 1/2" tall and I still went full shaker front instead of slab, so the handles will need a decent bit of clearance to sit properly in the center panel. Then, get the top on (going to be a huge dickpain to get this looking good due to the unevenness of the surrounding walls) and a bunch of installation finish work. Then cry because I'll still need to do the upper cabinet and some floating shelves.

[FilmBuff]

If the pressure on the wrist is too funky, I’ve been experimenting with straps on the bar to mimic a SSB and it’s working decently.

Again progression of weights might get tricky eventually.

[cgeorg]

2024-03-23

Deadlift DOH
245x3x5

Gotta run to watch Sparty, hopefully it's not a blowout. Also hopefully accessories later, worst case tomorrow after climbing.

[cgeorg]

Gotta run to watch Sparty, hopefully it's not a blowout. Also hopefully accessories later, worst case tomorrow after climbing.

Well the first 12 minutes or so went pretty well.

2024-03-24
Climbing

High gravity, skin still trash, not explosive, left hand feeling some kind of extra weirdness. After warmup,

Top Rope
5.12a
Didn't even have visions of sending this, it was just on the same rope as my partner's last warmup. Did it in 4 sections or so, and it seemed like it might go on a good day. Even with 3 breaks, my right hand/forearm was pumped as hell when I got down.

5.10c Fail
Don't remember the last time I fell on a 5.10. The right hand pump was just too much by the end. This is a climb I would normally cruise, and I even found a rest about halfway up.

5.11b Fail
Tricky pockety little climb with a fairly hard sequence about 3/4 of the way up, on which I fell. Got back on and easily finished, but I think that when I got back on I started from a position that is hard to get into, so it's still going to be a challenge to get the full send.

5.11a Fail
Fun bouldery climb, fell on a move that I shouldn't have, but I had a little stanky leg going and was shaky and just lost a foot. This one was an auto-belay, so I didn't get to try to rest. It looked like there was one more move that could have been a little tricky.

Bouldering
I knew this would be trash and was.

Lifting
Accessories from yesterday

Unilateral Triceps Pressdown
15x12x3
+
BBC
55x12x3
Last rep @10, but no form breakdown.

[cgeorg]

2024-03-26

Squat
175x5x3

Internal Rotations
Blue Bandx10x3

Stepped up to the next band, these were frickin hard.

Supine BB Row
95x10x3

Incline Pushup
BWx10x3

Feet on ground, hands on safeties at wife bench level. Shoulder already feels a bit funny, we'll see.

BB Curl
95xF

Putting it back into the rack from the rows, got to parallel.