CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)

[cgeorg]

Pretty good climb sesh yesterday.

2019-07-10

Post-workout BW: 206.4
Duration: 1:11, dicked around a bit

BTN Jerk
155x1
165x1
170x1
175x1
180x1x2
165x1x2

Got a lil pressy on a few. I could squat more under them, but I have a couple things running across the ceiling that I'm avoiding (I have about 4 total inches laterally to maneuver, 2 on each side), and I can't safely bail, so I'm kinda just trying to keep things really simple.

HBBS
270x3x4@6-7

Bench Press raw
220x3x6@7-8

[cgeorg]

2019-07-13

Next-morning BW: 200.4
Duration: ??

Reverse BB Lunge
75x(5x4)x4

5 reps on each leg twice each set.

Bench Press
200x4x7

Last 2 sets had about 15s rest between, last set was ~@8

SGRDL straps
225x8x3

The first one always feels pretty hard, and then they just stay like that for many reps.

Followed this with ~11mile bike ride with some decent elevation changes and a beer break in the middle. oof

[cgeorg]

in b4 one month with no logging.

Took a break from barbells/hanleygramming due to schedule and probably just needing a little break, I've been pretty consistent in my training since ... Dec 2017, so it was time for an off season. I've been climbing when I can, and starting to piece together what my next path is going to be. I think it's something like:

Climb 2x/wk if possible, hangboard if not

GPP 2x/wk if possible, consisting of some combination of:
- Running (which is actually run/jog/walk because I'm playing pokemon go while I do it)
- Pushups, pullups, SGRDLs, pistol squats

Biking with my girlfriend when she wants to*

I might try to figure out a 15min yoga practice to do when I wake up, it would be really nice to create that habit.

Summer softball season is over, need to try to find something for fall. I didn't hit any more official home runs after the swing help but I did put one into the weeds in dead center on the fly for a ground rule double, and put one about 30 feet over a tall fence in right for an out (to lose a game, had the ball been to right center instead of right it would have been a walk-off).

*We did a 62 miler on Saturday. I was resisting for quite some time and eventually gave in. I was right. 45 would have been ok, but we did the GAP from Pittsburgh area to Connellsville, and it is about 300ft of gain with 0 loss. You just never get a chance to coast, it is just awful. My seat post was also frozen at the bottom position, which is inappropriately low and I could turn this into even more of a bitch fest so I'm just going to be done. My ass still hurts. Ok now I'm done.

[cgeorg]

2018-08-12

Run/walk/jog. I think my quads are still recovering - there was one hill where I actually had to stop and walk, rather than doing it volitionally.

Hangboarding:


Some pushups and door trim pullups while doing housework

[cgeorg]

Bad at doing stuff. I have been on a bike ride since. Threw my grippers into my laptop bag, along with my expand yo' hands

Today, over a few hours at my desk:
GD90 (lbs, each hand)
55x10x2
84x5x3
112x3x2 (left hand was about .5mm away from closing the last rep of set 2)
141xF About 5mm to go
Greenx10
84x5x2
Greenx20
84x10
Greenx20
84x10
114x[7R, 4L]@10
Greenx20
55x10

[cgeorg]

Ok, nice little 2 month barbell hiatus. Had to clean off some literal and figurative cobwebs.

2019-09-18

Bench Press 90s
135x5
185x[3,5] misload, meant to grab 10s and it's been so long I forgot what was what
155x[4,8,5,10,5,6,4,6,3]

Not too bad. Right shoulder is a little weird.

SGRDL
185x[3,6,4,8,4,6,3]

Hammies are gonna be sad tomorrow.

[cgeorg]

I've done some things. Climbed at a place in Missouri on a recent trip, including some auto belays that were probably about 15 ft higher than my current gym, maybe 40ft total? Flashed 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10-. Also did some bouldering, there was a really fun slab that I couldn't do in time. Did 145x5x8 bench and 185 5x5 SGRDL saturday, climbed yesterday with a flash of a new v3-5 and some other fine stuff, and today did 145x8x5 bench and in the middle of 205x5x5 squats. Don't really have a plan, just want to bench at least twice a week and squat or deadlift during that workout as well. Would be cool to get to 2x a week climbing and 2x a week lifting. The last 3-4 months have been craycray, haven't been home most weekends, and work has been a lot.

[cgeorg]

I continue to do things! More climbing than lifting, although I'm still most a v3-5 climber. A new bouldering gym opened up nearby and they actually give exact grades, and I usually end up sending my first v5 of the session and then taper, still sucking at not getting pumped and I think still limited by finger strength, and technique. Do some benching occasionally while my fiancee is lifting, and aside from one day last summer where gravity was just turned right the fuck off, it usually goes pretty sadly. Browsed around a bit because she's stalling and I'm not great at programming, and I think I'm going to put her on the 12 session MM, and maybe look at doing it myself as well?

Eh, anyway, been a year off the site, and I have been too busy to really fully participate, but I'm not dead, and I do lift sometimes, and I climb even more. Hopefully I'll put a lifting sesh entry here soon.

[augeleven]

Congrats on the upcoming marriage, and also not being dead!

[broseph]

I noticed you commenting in another thread- wondered if you’d get back to logging.

Glad you’re not dead!

[cgeorg]

Thanks for the congratses, glad feelings, and et ceteras guys.

Gonna run Hanley's 12 session general strength template, targeting 2 sessions a week. Ballparked training maxes at 275/215/315 for the first pass.

2021-02-08 C1S1

BW: 193 in sweats
Duration: a bit over an hour I think. Worked out w/fiancee

Bench raw
174x3x6

Good, all sub @6 I'd say.

Squat raw
193x6
242x1 @8 or 9
193x[6,5,3,3]

None of these were particularly hard but my back has been tweaky, and right before Thanksgiving I had been squatting something light, 135 I think, not focusing and managed to have it pop and lay me up for a week or so, so while I have squatted since and been very focused, I hadn't felt anything near 240 on my back in a while. It was kinda scary, probably cut that one off short. Might get into my belt for 225+. Backoffs were cut short because my hamstrings kindly informed me that while the squats weren't that hard, I would not be walking well tomorrow, and the next warning was going to be a cramp or spasm of some sort.

Pullups
BWx[8,6,5,5]

Nice and explosive

[cgeorg]

One of the climbers I follow, Emil Abrahamsson, just posted this gem:



tl;dr tendons seem to react very well to about 10m of activity, and ready to go again after 6 hours. Response appears to be independent of frequency (I believe this means frequency of the stimulus within the 10m window?) and intensity.

The paper: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5371618/

To begin to understand what type of activity was optimal for sinew, engineered ligaments were stretched at different frequencies, intensities, and durations and the molecular response was determined. These experiments showed that the molecular response to loading was independent of the frequency and intensity of loading, because ranges from 1 load/10 s to 1 load/s and from 2.5 to 10% stretch produced the same molecular response. This is consistent with animal experiments where the molecular response to resistance exercise was the same in tendons regardless of whether the muscle underwent shortening, isometric, or lengthening contractions. The only parameter that did alter the cellular response was time. Within 10 min of starting the activity, the molecular response had reached its maximum. If loading continued, the molecular signals began switching off. Further experiments showed that it took 6 h for the cells to become responsive to exercise again. Using this information, we developed an intermittent exercise program consisting of 10 min of activity followed by 6 h of rest. After 5 days, the engineered ligaments that had undergone the intermittent activity protocol produced more collagen than those that were exercised continuously. These results are similar to what we know occurs in bone in vivo; very few loading events followed by 6–8 h of rest result in the greatest amount of bone mineral deposition.

And, a cited paper with more on developing the frequency, intensity, duration, refractory period, etc: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3267962/

I'm going to try this out, my fingers have been feeling really weak on crimps lately, and I injured a pulley tendon back in September, and it seems there's no reason not to do this. I have solid door frames at my place so I won't even have to venture into the freezing dungeon for hangboarding, but gf's are weak trim. Going to have to find something I can put some weight on there - fridge hangs?

[cgeorg]

In other catch up news, I built a small home climbing wall back in May. It now also has a header with my hangboard mounted to that:

[cgeorg]

2021-02-11 C1S2

Post-workout BW: 188.4
Duration: 1:00ish

Bench 90s
144x[8,8,8,6,6,6]

Shoulder got kinda fucky. I should have dropped rep count earlier, things were slowing. Or just run this as HVLF and rock 10 5s.

DL 90-120s
284x1 @7? belt
227x4x6

Top single felt hard but not too hard. Did the first set of 4 on the way up and it was a lot harder than the second set of 4. All the 4s were fine though.

Pushups
BWx[15,12,12]

Was shot enough that 2 more sets didn't seem useful

BB Curlz
45x[12,12,10]

--

I don't really remember what heavy weights and trying hard feel like. Kind of excited to rediscover them.

[cgeorg]

2021-02-18 C2S3

BW: 190.8 in sweats and slippers
Duration: 51m

Bench 90s
200x1@7?
166x4x6

Not bad, stayed at the top of the range for this one. Maybe my shoulder just doesn't like volume. I've also been doing that hang thing which might be doing something for some shoulder tendons? Since I can take weight off I can really do a good 90 degrees half crimp with my left hand, and it has shown me that my middle finger has a really sore spot that is probably being overloaded or causing me to change my grip when climbing, so it will be good to sort that. That said, it is very hard for me to go to the wall and not go hard.

Squat 90s, belt
212x3x7

My back has gone out (pop, week of pain and limited mobility) a couple of times squatting over the past year, and it gets unhappy at the bottom of weighted squats and that makes me nervous which is a bad feeling to have while squatting, and it did that for my 185 warmups, so I belted up for the work sets. They went a lot better than last time, although I ended up taking a few minute break after set 3 and I felt a little cold/tight/sore for the next couple of sets.

Pullups
Skipped because I'm lead climbing tomorrow. Luckily my limit when leading is generally endurance, not finger strength, so I should be on easier holds.

[cgeorg]

Went and did some lead climbing last Friday, as well as top rope stuff. The holds at this gym tend to have a lot less friction and it's so different. The pump comes on differently but then also because they have less friction I think the holds tend to be a bit bigger/better, so even once you get the pump you can still kinda hold on? Made it as far on the one big overhang route as I was making it before, so I haven't lost much. Clipping wasn't much of a struggle except for one specific clip on that overhang route. The route goes up, then traverses a 45* overhang wall, then goes into a roof, for a bit, then up another 45*, and the draws are all already in. There's one clip on that traverse where I have to climb past it to get to a good hold for clipping, but the gate is facing away and the rope is coming from that side and it just sucks ass. I think I need to find a way to clip with my other hand before I get past it.


2021-02-22 C1S4

BW: nfi
Duration: nfi, relatively quick though

Bench
138x[8,8,9,8,8,8]

Got a little shouldery on the later reps of the later sets. Thought I might have pre-counted a rep during set 3 so I didn't increment after the rep, and my fiancee asked afterwards if that was 9, so yeah. Glad I didn't start out with 10s. She got her 6 sets of 10 tho, beast mode.

DL
255x3x4

Did the minimum, back was really feeling it and my left middle finger is still healing up (hopefully).

OHP
125x1@7-8?
106x3x7 (7m density)

This filled out the chest swole feeling.

BBC
55x8x4

[cgeorg]

2021-02-26 C1S5

I hope this program works well as twice a week instead of 4x/week. Things do seem to be getting easier for me, but I've got noob re-gainz coming. Fiancee has been going strong for a while now and I haven't gotten her 1RMs up in a while. Come on Hanley magic.

Post-workout and pizza BW: 192.6
Duration: ??

Bench
194x1 @6-7
176x3x5

Bar feels heavy in the hands but all good on the reps.

Squat
232x3
222x3x5

I don't know plate math anymore either. These all felt good, probably not even @5.

Pullups
BWx5x5

[cgeorg]

2021-03-02 C1S6

BW: 190.4
Duration: hourish

Bench
150x6x6
150x8

All pretty easy.

DL
240x3x7

Tendon pain in my left middle finger made these kinda hard until I moved the bar lower in my hand, taking most of the weight of it off the sore bit. I was coming up crooked but I think that's because I wasn't pulling as hard on the left side due to pain, which ironically made that side heavier as it rode lower. Had to consciously pull a little more on that side to even it out. These did start to get heavy at the end.

Curlz
50x12x4

Fuck, forgot to do pushups

[cgeorg]

2021-03-05 C1S7

Bench
174x2
184x2
205x1
174x2x7

Squat
180x6
255x1
175x6

Called these bc back was being dumb

---

Missed S8

---

2021-03-15 C1S9

Bench
184x2x7

ez

Squat
225x3x6

Went beltless on these and it was fine, best squatting has felt since I started this up.

Chins
BWx[5,5,5,4,3]

Was rushing these, and did one set with fairly slow concentrics concentrating on feeling each part of my back pulling, so I killed myself pretty good.


Climbed yesterday, mostly V3 and 4 stuff at the new gym. Was nice to clean up technique and reading on some stuff that was more attainable. Haven't been very consistent with the 10 min light hang protocol, but that tendon/joint is starting to feel better.

[cgeorg]

2021-03-23 C1S10

Getting close to the end of the cycle

Bench
154x5x6

Just started to get a little tight in the shoulder/front delt/pec at the end.

Deadlift
252x1x12

Pushups
BWx[25,20,15,15]

Well those dropped off quick.

BBC
50x10x4

I used to have good work capacity.