CMG's Log (6', 190lbs, HLM, HPS, Montana, Climbing)

[cgeorg]

2023-02-14

Rehab
T and 90/90 stretches w/band in door
Kneeling shoulder extensions x10x2
Kneeling shoulder abduction x10x2
Rotator cuff robot x[10, 12, 14]

Forgot the robots were supposed to be to fatigue and just did 10 for the first set. Everything felt good

[cgeorg]

Log dump

2023-02-16

PT
The foam roller thoracic stretch was causing shoulder/neck pain depending on how I cradled, so we switch to a seated one that was better.
Wall rotation things, kneeling perpendicular to the wall with my arm straight out in front of me, palm against the wall, rotating my arm up and away (got to about 20 degrees behind me), then back to start position and do an "open book close book" thing for one rep. 2 sets of 10.
Kneel, hold kettlebell straight up, tip to other side until other hand touches the ground, then back to the start. 6kg, 2 sets of 10.
Manual manipulation (sports massage?)

Driving range was ok, not great.

2023-02-17

Warmup: rotator cuff robots, T and 90/90 stretch, dead hang, easy boulders

Top Rope
5.10a onsight big slanted edged jugs
5.10b onsight sustained big move jugs
5.11a fail pinches and volumes, v hard
5.11a onsight crimpy short wall

Bouldering
v3-5 flash weird crimpy ledgy mantle thing, real rock-ish
v3-5 flash not sure how to describe, horizontal with feet following hands to a rock over then a couple of big side pull moves
v3-5 2nd go overhung decent slopers a little dynamic
v3-5 flash overhung long was not able to keep shoulders engaged, was hanging

Boulder sesh surprised me after getting pretty fatigued on the sport walls.

Also did another round of stretching late.

2023-02-18

Rehab
Rotator cuff robots, T and 90/90 stretch

2023-02-19

Warmup: rotator cuff robots, T and 90/90 stretch, dead hang, easy boulders

Top Rope
5.10a onsight
5.11a 2 parts, crimpy hard
5.10b on sight big moves on big holds
5.11a foot slip or would have onsighted, hard moves on meh ribbed holds
5.11a shitty crimps the whole way, fell 3x didn't finish. No idea where to find a rest on this one.

Bouldering
v3-5 couple tries, shoulder and skin are tweaky but looks doable fresher
comp (v2?) 2nd go fell on the start the first time
comp v1 flash
comp dynamic big volume stuff couldn't get the first move
comp awkward big holds couldn't figure out tension finish
comp v4? 2nd go. mantle and shoulders

Shoulder and skin were saying no for basically all of bouldering.

[cgeorg]

2023-02-20

Rehab
T, 90/90 stretch
Shoulder extensions 2x10
Shoulder abduction 2x10
Robots 2x10

[cgeorg]

2023-02-22

Rehab
T, 90/90 stretch
External rotation isometric 10s x10
Robots 2x10

Took a pretty big step on the iso holds, it all felt pretty good and I slept through the night so yay.

It's going to be a beautiful afternoon to golf instead of working, but everyone else is going to have the same idea

[cgeorg]

2023-02-23

Golf
9 holes x50 strokes :/

Was paired up with an older dude named John, he was very nice company and went like 2 over. He recently shot 70 at the age of 71. Still had some decent distance and just didn't really make mistakes.

2023-02-24

PT
Some flossing stuff, hanging, anterior delt raises, superset of laying-on-side external rotations, lateral raises, and arm-out-in-front-to-arm-straight-up raises that destroyed me.

Bouldering
v1, v0, v1, v1, v2, v2
v3 fail a bunch, dynamic move in the middle seems too hard for the grade or I just don't see it.
v3 flash crimpy
v3 flash tough overhung underlings
some more stuff I forgot to write down, trying harder stuff then heard the call of...

Auto-belay
5.11- failx2, got to 2nd to last hold on the 2nd go. The holds are all stacked and side-pull in opposite directions, so you keep having to transition sides on holds that are just barely enough to hold, with shitty sideways feet.
5.8 x4 with some rest at the top, and actual no-hands rest on the auto-belay down. Completely toast, there wasn't really anything very good to rest on. @10
5.6 x4 climbed up and down, all resting on the wall. Might have had 1 more up. @9.5

The laps on the 5.8 destroyed me, I think I rested over 10 min before the 5.6 and was still incredibly pumped when I finally just started that set.

[cgeorg]

2023-02-25

Rehab
T, 90/90
One of the ductions, mix of iso and concentric
Robots 2x10

2023-02-26

shoulder stuff, boulder warmups, a 5.6 autobelay

Top Rope
5.9 flash but holds were worse than they should have been for a 5.9
5.11a fell on the last move, really unfriendly crimp with really bad sideways feet and I didn't have the grip strength to finish it. Was pretty happy with this one overall.
5.11b fell 3 or 4 times on a move halfway up that I just couldn't get past. Real sketchy sidepull, I couldn't hold the barn door and I couldn't work out better foot beta.

Finished out trying some comp boulders that were apparently set as part of a camp for youth setting and the boxes were too small to fit into. Got most of the way through two and part way through another. They were also just quite hard.

[cgeorg]

Did rehab on 2/27 but didn't write it down. Missed yesterday

2023-03-01

Rehab
T, 90/90
Horizontal Abduction 10s iso holds 2x10
+
Robots x10, x15

[cgeorg]

2023-03-02

PT
Trying to remember what all the new things were.
- Band resisted snow angels? Set up bands to be pulling across the body, like a waist height cross-body cable setup. Pull so that arms are down by sides, palms facing forward. Keeping the arm held in line with the body and palms forward, sweep out and up to an overhead position, then back.
- kneeling KB presses w/the PT using a band to pull my arm to the side, forcing me to work to keep external rotation.
- I can't for the life of me remember the last one
My patient portal has a summary
- Thoracic extension from bench 10 seconds x 12 (i don't remember what this was)
- scap wall angels (seated with hips flexed) with 2.5# plates 2 x 10 (seated against the wall doing a snow angel movement, keep arms touching wall)
- Crossed tubing pulls Red tubing 3 x 8-10 (these were the banded snow angels)
- Half kneeling KB overhead press with banded adduction resistance (x small j band) 6kg KB 2 x 8 ea arm
- Bottom up KB carry at 90 deg scaption 6kg with opp briefcase carry 12kg 15 yards x 3 laps (farmer carry left hand, right hand in a 90/90 shoulder/elbow position, about halfway between out-in-front and out-to-the-side

2023-03-03
Missed. I was planning to climb, which replaces rehab in my daily plan if I'm going to do it because I do some of it in my warmups, but then I scrapped climbing to do some mudding (fucking hating mudding rn, although I did enjoy the early quickset and taping work) and forgot to throw PT back on the plan.

2023-03-04

Rehab
T, 90/90
Robots x12x2
+
Banded snow angels x10x2

2023-03-05

Lead
5.10b PR Onsight. Hardest lead to date baby! I am not sure how much I actually recover during rests but it seems like I might be getting a little better at it. This was a pretty juggy route, though a few of the holds were a bit slopier than you'd like to see. Onwards and upwards to 10c
5.10a This one was a bit more fun than the other one, but certainly had nicer holds and didn't go through the big overhanging part of the wall.

Bouldering
v3-5 pockets overhang failx2. I don't like pushing it with pockets so I bailed on this.
v3-5 send 2nd go, slipped off a hand hold, had sent this before
v3-5 3-4 projecting attempts. Couldn't get the 2nd or final moves, the former of which seems really tenuous and the latter very powerful.
v3-5 day flash (Have sent it before, sent it first try today)
v4-6 no dice, bad feet with sketchy crimps
v3-5 3rd go sketchy crimps again, took me a few tries to work out foot beta
v3-5 flash
Cooldowns: v3, v3, v3 with a fall, v3 with a big move out to the right that really spanned me out and hurt the shoulder a bit but I powered through because end of session cooldowns should aggravate your injuries, right?

[cgeorg]

A lower part of my mid back that doesn't usually get sore is sore. Lower traps maybe? Taking it as a good sign that I used more of the muscles that I should be using when climbing yesterday.

2023-03-06

Rehab
T, 90/90
Banded snow angels x8x2
External rotations x12x2
+
Robots x12x2

[cgeorg]

Shoulder rehab is basically done, finished PT and got most ROM back, since then pain has mostly gone away, possibly bc I haven't done anything physical in a few weeks because...

I fell while holding a glass water bottle (lots of questions about this, it's got a lot of silicone rubber around it, I don't like the taste of water out of plastic or metal), breaking it and then impaling my left (non-dominant thankfully) wrist on it. Really bad, severed my ulnar and median arteries, median nerve, all 4 FDS tendons, and that tendon that some people don't have and isn't really needed. They ligated the arteries in the ER and reattached the nerves and tendons in an outpatient surgery a few days later. I have good palmar flow via the radial artery but now have no backups feeding blood so I need to try to not sever that one.

Very unlucky/lucky situation, unlucky that the chain of events that occurred did so, lucky that I didn't bleed out on my porch and I guess that somehow it missed my ulnar nerve. In a splint for another 1-4 weeks (it's hard to get much in the way of predictions from docs at this point) while tendons heal up. Nerve damage means I've lost some motor control, I think mostly in my thumb (can't bend the knuckle, although I do feel a slight extra tingle in the thumb tip when I try to? I think that's probably just my brain being confused about a signal coming from the nerve near the sever, that used to be connected to the thumb, so it's attributing the sensation to that area? Sensation in the thumb through ring finger is weird - since the nerve was completely severed I feel like I should have none, but in some areas I can at least feel pressure, and I noticed I have hot/cold on the back of some parts of those fingers, and can feel tingles when touched in some areas. I may have some weird crossover nerves somewhere, it sounded like my anatomy is a bit unusual. I apparently have (had?) the biggest median artery the surgeon had ever seen.

Getting pretty good at one-handed typing. Predicted to gave left hand typing back in another 4 weeks or so, and about 2.5 months for fell strength on the tendons. Nerves are a big question mark, they regrow about a mm a day (though I also saw 1-3mm in some papers) and sometimes they just don't regrow correctly. Will be months to really know. Nerve pain sucks, they started me at 100mg gabapentin 3x/day, currently up to 3x that and it's barely enough. The sensations are so foreign - weird pressures and you can't tell if something hurts because this splint is squishing it or if it's just nerves being weird. Tingling is ok. There are sometimes jolts that feel like a finger was struck by lightning. These are very acute, and generally hit an 8-10 on the pain scale, but have mostly gone away. There is also a general burning sensation that is persistent, and the reason I keep needing to up the neurontin. Without enough of that, it gets into constant 7-8 territory. The worst was when they were cleaning out the wound pre-ligation, one very specific bit of finger lightning while I was in the ER, and then general post-op nerve pain. I ended up needing a nerve block to get discharged, and when that wore off and I was only on 100mg of gaba I had a really bad few hours before we got me upped to 200.

I'm a very optimistic person and have a generally positive outlook on how this will turn out. I'm still able to work one-handed, though I get mentally and physically drained quicker. I struggle with taking downtime because I am still capable of doing a lot of stuff one-handed, so when I don't want to do things I can't tell if it's a legit "no you need to rest and recover," vs. "you are just taking advantage of this to lay around and watch youtube."

I don't really have a conclusion, and this is a huge wall of text directed at no one. I guess it feels good to type out that last sentence of the prior paragraph. I don't have great closeup pics of the injury but I'll upload what I have later in a spoiler tag for the gore-porn lovers.

[broseph]

In for the gore.

It's crazy how much damage freshly broken glass can do. And how weird healing nerves can be.

[Renascent]

Shoulder rehab is basically done, finished PT and got most ROM back, since then pain has mostly gone away, possibly bc I haven't done anything physical in a few weeks because...

I fell while holding a glass water bottle (lots of questions about this, it's got a lot of silicone rubber around it, I don't like the taste of water out of plastic or metal), breaking it and then impaling my left (non-dominant thankfully) wrist on it. Really bad, severed my ulnar and median arteries, median nerve, all 4 FDS tendons, and that tendon that some people don't have and isn't really needed. They ligated the arteries in the ER and reattached the nerves and tendons in an outpatient surgery a few days later. I have good palmar flow via the radial artery but now have no backups feeding blood so I need to try to not sever that one.

Very unlucky/lucky situation, unlucky that the chain of events that occurred did so, lucky that I didn't bleed out on my porch and I guess that somehow it missed my ulnar nerve. In a splint for another 1-4 weeks (it's hard to get much in the way of predictions from docs at this point) while tendons heal up. Nerve damage means I've lost some motor control, I think mostly in my thumb (can't bend the knuckle, although I do feel a slight extra tingle in the thumb tip when I try to? I think that's probably just my brain being confused about a signal coming from the nerve near the sever, that used to be connected to the thumb, so it's attributing the sensation to that area? Sensation in the thumb through ring finger is weird - since the nerve was completely severed I feel like I should have none, but in some areas I can at least feel pressure, and I noticed I have hot/cold on the back of some parts of those fingers, and can feel tingles when touched in some areas. I may have some weird crossover nerves somewhere, it sounded like my anatomy is a bit unusual. I apparently have (had?) the biggest median artery the surgeon had ever seen.

Getting pretty good at one-handed typing. Predicted to gave left hand typing back in another 4 weeks or so, and about 2.5 months for fell strength on the tendons. Nerves are a big question mark, they regrow about a mm a day (though I also saw 1-3mm in some papers) and sometimes they just don't regrow correctly. Will be months to really know. Nerve pain sucks, they started me at 100mg gabapentin 3x/day, currently up to 3x that and it's barely enough. The sensations are so foreign - weird pressures and you can't tell if something hurts because this splint is squishing it or if it's just nerves being weird. Tingling is ok. There are sometimes jolts that feel like a finger was struck by lightning. These are very acute, and generally hit an 8-10 on the pain scale, but have mostly gone away. There is also a general burning sensation that is persistent, and the reason I keep needing to up the neurontin. Without enough of that, it gets into constant 7-8 territory. The worst was when they were cleaning out the wound pre-ligation, one very specific bit of finger lightning while I was in the ER, and then general post-op nerve pain. I ended up needing a nerve block to get discharged, and when that wore off and I was only on 100mg of gaba I had a really bad few hours before we got me upped to 200.

I'm a very optimistic person and have a generally positive outlook on how this will turn out. I'm still able to work one-handed, though I get mentally and physically drained quicker. I struggle with taking downtime because I am still capable of doing a lot of stuff one-handed, so when I don't want to do things I can't tell if it's a legit "no you need to rest and recover," vs. "you are just taking advantage of this to lay around and watch youtube."

I don't really have a conclusion, and this is a huge wall of text directed at no one. I guess it feels good to type out that last sentence of the prior paragraph. I don't have great closeup pics of the injury but I'll upload what I have later in a spoiler tag for the gore-porn lovers.

Shit, dude.

Hope it all heals up as best as it can.

[augeleven]

Oh man that’s rough. And you’re a guitar player too, right? That’s a nightmare.
I wish you the best

[DCR]

@cgeorg, to use a grossly overused word with seriousness, your approach to this is inspiring. All the best to you.

[cgeorg]

Laceration, Crime scene, Post-surgical picShow

Thanks for the wishes guys.

I am a guitar player. Not sure how that is going to go post-recovery. I feel like it could actually be good rehab for fine motor control in the fingers, but I'm not sure how much of that I'll actually need, and lack of sensation in my fingertips would probably throw me off. It would be a good way to get in a bunch of junk volume.

I had my splint adjusted yesterday, wrist is now neutral instead of about 30 degrees flexion. MCP joint (base of the finger) is set at about 50-60 degrees of flexion. I am not going to be allowed full neutral much less extension for a while, to keep tension on the tendons minimized. I do get to start the duran protocol which feels fucking amazing given that my fingers have not gotten much movement in the past 2 weeks.

It involves passive flexion of the individual joints in the fingers (using my good hand to bend them), and place and holds (passive flexion of all the fingers followed by trying to hold that position using the injured parts).

Also apparently bending the thumb joint isn't a median nerve motor control thing, it's just hard due to ... swelling? I can hold it a little doing a place and hold. The median nerve does control motor function to the big muscle at the base, which is used for things like rotating your thumb in towards your fingers, which I do seem to be able to do? I thought I kind of understood how nerve healing and regrowth worked after reading papers but it turns out I have NFI.

Also I get to take of my splint to wash things which will be greatly appreciated by my wife, and I should start massaging the incisions with Vit E/cocoa butter 2-3x a day which I have not yet done and predict to be weird. She has a thing about wrists and serious injuries so I'm on my own for the rubs, though she was an absolute champ when it counted.

[alek]

Damn, dude. That sounds horrendous, and I wish you a speedy and as full as you can get recovery!

[cgeorg]

Turned 40 today, doesn't feel like much of anything.

I did get a nice birthday present yesterday from the doc. I don't have to wear the splint any more, and pain levels are way down without the constant contact exciting all of the nerves. I got to start working extension in addition to the flexion I'd been doing. ROM is trash right now, especially on the middle finger, although my pinkie basically has full range. I can see skin pulling in my wrist at the scar when trying to extend the other fingers, I'm hoping it's just swelling and not any actual adhesion/scar tissue stuff. Or if it is, that the adhesion/scar tissue is weaker than the tendon repair site. The goal is straight wrist + fingers in 2 weeks.

Doc is a bit concerned that I still can't flex my thumb knuckle, but didn't offer any possible reasons or solutions. Perhaps he's also hoping it's just swelling. Gave me a scrip for 800mg ibuprofen for the swelling after not directly answering my questions about if I should be taking ibuprofen the last 2 visits.

I got the ok to go bowling (no using left hand for anything, will wear the splint JIC), also a good birthday gift which I am cashing in on tonight.

[broseph]

Gave me a scrip for 800mg ibuprofen for the swelling after not directly answering my questions about if I should be taking ibuprofen the last 2 visits.

Classic doctoring.

I got the ok to go bowling (no using left hand for anything, will wear the splint JIC), also a good birthday gift which I am cashing in on tonight.

Happy birthday, and again- strong work on staying fairly positive about all this.

[cgeorg]

So last week I felt some pain and bumps near the ol' butthole, figured some external roids, pain got pretty bad so I got a telehealth appt (didn't ask to see them) and was told to do prep H/witch hazel/phenylephrine or whatever the vasodilator for buttholes is, and make an appt with an ass man (got that scheduled for 3 days out). Called back the next day bc pain was unbearable, was told I was doing everything right and keep it up. Luckily I had some leftover oxy from the wrist stuff to get me through the nights. Dude wouldn't even prescribe me an ass cream. Called the ass man and got the appt bumped up a day.

Went to appt, it was an abscess related to an anal fistula, doc was incredulous that I didn't go to the ER earlier (making me even more incredulous of the CRNP I'd teleheathed with, apparently excruciating pain should mean go to the ER, not call us back if you can't get an appointment within a week). Drained "a _lot_ of pus". Why do local anesthetics hurt so damn much going in? Had surgery 2 days later (Friday), got a fistulotomy ("I turned a burrito into a taco" "I'm sorry, so there's just an open slice into my butthole?" "Yes. And discontinue your antibiotics" ???). From internet reading I am a 1%er recovery-wise, just avoiding sitting now for healing even though it doesn't hurt to sit, only hurts a little bit to shit and that's mostly after it's passed, and a semi-pulsing shower wand for cleanup also causes no pain.

Having a hard time getting into OT appointments, so I only had 1 each of the past 2 weeks, and progress on the hand is sub-par. Tendons are adhering to stuff, doc seemed peeved that there hadn't been active individual finger gliding exercises at the OT. Trying to find a way to get there more often. I had a different woman last week and I liked her much more, she seemed more thorough and rougher, which is what I need right now. My next 3 scheduled appts are all with different people (original OT, new OT, and a third I haven't met). Calling after I hit Submit to see if there have been any cancellations.

[Renascent]

"I turned a burrito into a taco"

Yeesh.

Happy belated birthday.